One of many nicest experiences for a watch nerd is discovering a brand new model, and just lately I’ve had the pleasure to find Nezumi. The Swedish model has existed since 2011, and initially targeted on clothes earlier than launching its first watch in 2015. With the model having been producing watches for the previous seven years, I am ashamed to say that I do not recall listening to of them till this 12 months. Which is my loss, as a result of they produce a number of enticing watches that have a tendency to supply a contemporary twist on basic classic designs.
Nezumi was based by David Campo, who spent 20 years as a designer and a artistic director within the vogue trade. It is due to this fact secure to say that David is aware of a factor or two about good design, and he is used Nezumi to deliver to life the concepts that he did not wish to divulge to purchasers. For instance, Nezumi’s first undertaking was a set of Swedish-made selvedge denim denims. David ran the enterprise by himself for the primary 8 years, earlier than realizing that in an effort to develop he wanted to increase the group, a realization that has led the model to the place it’s at present.
Historically the model has caught to utilizing quartz actions in its chronographs, however as 2021 marked the corporate’s ten-year anniversary Nezumi needed to launch one thing particular. That particular one thing was the Voiture VM1S, the model’s first mechanical chronograph. There are three dial choices to select from, cream, black, and blue, every of which is proscribed to 100 items. The Voiture VM1S has a retail value of €1,427 (roughly £1,203) excluding VAT.
As you may see, the mannequin Nezumi despatched me for this evaluation is the blue one, which thankfully occurs to be my favourite out of the three colors.
A Curvy Case
The case of the Voiture is vaguely paying homage to a Speedy, with lyre lugs and a raised fastened bezel. It measures 40mm throughout, with a lug size of 47mm, and a thickness of 14.5mm. On paper, the watch sounds fairly thick, however that is the place the case form comes into its personal. The design has lots of curves and angles to it that assist break up the watch’s silhouette, and make it look thinner than it truly is. That is additional helped by the truth that the end alternates between brushed and polished, which additionally makes it really feel that little bit extra refined.
Consequently, the Voiture really wears actually properly, and I believe that it is a perfect well-rounded dimension. One optimistic factor concerning the thickness is that it offers the watch a little bit of presence, which is one thing these with thicker wrists will recognize. The watch additionally has a pleasant little bit of heft to it, and while weight would not equal to high quality, it does assist to create a optimistic notion of the watch.
As a racing chronograph type watch, the Voiture solely comes with a 50m depth ranking, which implies it is inadvisable to take it swimming. Extra water resistance can be good, however given the type of the watch, I do not contemplate it a failing on Nezumi’s half. In spite of everything, not each watch must be a diver!
The Voiture comes on a jubilee type bracelet, which attire the watch up a bit, in addition to being exceedingly snug. The small hyperlinks mildew to the wrist completely, and the standard of them is nice. Nonetheless, the clasp is the one factor that lets the bracelet down. It is an ordinary cheap-looking foldover clasp that locks utilizing friction. Given the worth level of the watch, I would have favored it if the clasp had a extra streamlined design and a push-button lock.
An Superior Dial Design
Now I have to admit that I believe Nezumi had finished a fully cracking job with the dial of the Voiture. The design is supposed to be impressed by Seventies racing watches, and that is one thing that positively comes throughout. Nonetheless, the Voiture would not really feel like a homage, and the design seems to be distinctly unique while incorporating a number of tasteful retro touches.
I actually need to applaud Nezumi’s use of colour on this watch, as I believe that goes an extended solution to establishing the Seventies vibe. While the watch has two shades of blue, cream, and orange, it would not really feel as if there’s an excessive amount of happening. Every colour is used simply sufficient so as to add one thing to the design, with out overpowering the watch as an entire. The dial has a matte end too, which definitely helps cease the colours from being overpowering.
The dial additionally has a pleasant little bit of depth to it, because of the mixture of sunken sub-dials and utilized markers. In the meantime, the square-tipped baton handset is rather like these discovered on classic chronographs, and the twin end on them helps to make them visually fascinating in addition to legible.
I additionally assume that the bezel is very well executed. The aluminum insert has a pleasant wealthy blue hue towards which the silver print of the tachymeter scale actually pops. The addition of the “tenth Anniversary” print to the highest of the bezel is one other good delicate contact. David really hand drew the tachymeter scale himself too, in order to provide it a extra distinctive classic look. Moreover, there is a polished metal ring across the within the bezel, which units the blue insert off properly.
A closing classic contact is that the Voiture makes use of a double-domed sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the within. The results of all that is that the Voiture definitely seems to be funky, however it’s definitely not goofy. It manages to be enjoyable, but additionally purposeful, and the general design remains to be clear and legible.
After I first bought the Voiture, I used to be fearful that there wasn’t sufficient lume on it for me to have the ability to learn it at midnight. Happily, I used to be flawed, and the watch is definitely fairly straightforward to learn at evening. Lume is one space that usually will get ignored on watches that do not use an excessive amount of of it, and I’ve to provide credit score to Nezumi for ensuring that is not the case with the Voiture.
A Good Selection Of Motion
Considered one of my pet peeves is when manufacturers insist on utilizing an computerized chronograph motion that then ends in an exceptionally thick watch, so I am happy to see Nezumi go for a handbook wind motion within the Voiture. The precise motion Nezumi went with is the dependable Sellita SW510 Mb handbook wind chronograph. It has 27 jewels, a 4Hz beat charge, and a 48-hour energy reserve. The SW510 is the proper alternative for individuals who desire a Swiss-made chronograph with out breaking the financial institution, and it ought to show a superb timekeeper.
Remaining Ideas
So, in abstract, I believe that Nezumi has completely nailed the Voiture, and the one factor I would really change about it could be the clasp. Every thing else comes collectively completely to make a watch that channels the funky aesthetics of the Seventies, while additionally trying clear and up to date. The proportions are spot on, and while the watch might at all times be a bit thinner, Nezumi has finished an excellent job of utilizing the case design to masks the thickness.
It is not simply the design that is good although. The Voiture could be very nicely made and the general ending of the watch is superb. While it’s hardly low cost, with a retail value of £1200 plus VAT, I imagine that the watch is priced fairly nicely for a Swiss mechanical chronograph, and I believe that Nezumi has finished greater than sufficient to justify the worth tag.
You should buy the Voiture VM1S from Nezumi’s web site right here.