Charlie Paris Concordia
The Charlie Paris Concordia is available in many different colors, sizes, and movements, and this Tundra version is unique and special in several ways compared to the rest of the collection. Charlie Paris hails from France of course and has been operating since 2014. Almost 10 years ago, yet someone they have flown under my radar up until recently. The French brand makes both men’s and women’s watches and has quite a few different collections. This Concordia is using a Soprod P024 automatic movement, is available on either a bracelet or strap, and at least 10 different dial and bezel combos and even bezel-less options as well. I chose this Tundra version for review to showcase something different from the black or blue models most see in a vintage style diver like this, and because of the dial texture, this specific model has. At $920, it is pricey, especially considering the case design does strongly resemble a Tudor Black Bay, and the bracelet could be a lot better.
Specifications:
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40mm Stainless Steel Case
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47.5mm Lug to Lug
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12.5mm Thick
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20mm Lug Width
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155 grams in weight
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Screw Down Crown
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Domed Box Sapphire Crystal
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Non-magnetic shielding ISO764
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Aluminum Bezel Insert
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Swiss automatic Movement Soprod caliber P024
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See-Through Case Back
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300 Meters Water Resistance
Price, Approx. $922
https://charlie-paris.com/en/collections/concordia
On paper, the Charlie Paris Concordia does seem like a great offering, with a sapphire domed box, a textured dial, applied indices, a Swiss movement, and being assembled in France. And all those things are true, but it doesn’t tell the true story. To start, the case design while overall a vintage 60s diver, especially from the front, but when you turn it to the side, you see a case that looks very much like the Black Bay homage. Now the rest of the watch doesn’t look like a Black Bay at all, but we all know a BB case side when you see one. The case sides also add in this bead-blasted frosted texture, which does look good and holds up well to scratches and marks, and matches the aluminum bezel insert as well, but it’s an odd choice for a watch that is brushed and polished everywhere else .
The crown is unique though, and I do quite like it. The tapering design coupled with the enamel inserts and the engraved pattern on the face, all work together, and winding and manipulating the crown feels nice and solid. The bezel on the other hand, a stainless bezel with an anodized aluminum insert is just fine. It’s so thin that it’s a little hard to grip, especially with larger hands, but it does function well, and it does look good overall.
If you want something other than a plain matte or sunburst dial, the Tundra version of the Charlie Paris Concordia is the way to go. The dial looks like sand, or maybe more correctly, a stucco cement pattern, and it’s pretty pleasing to the eye and not overly aggressive. The rest of the dial is pretty standard fare, applied indices, date at 6, and brand and model name. Something I didn’t touch on in the video is the logo. Obviously, this is very subjective (as are many parts of a review) but I don’t care for the bird logo. It looks like it belongs on a fashion watch, and the Charlie Paris font is pretty mundane as well.
Around the back, you can see the Soprod P024 Automatic Swiss movement. If you are not familiar with Soprod, they are part of the Festina group and they have been in the game for a good while now, at least since 2004, and this movement is pretty much a clone of the ETA 2824. Like the ETA it does have a low 38-hour power reserve and accuracy can be anywhere from -1 (doubtful) to +14 spd. This movement, like the ETA and the SW200-1, is rather plain, and not decorated, but the rotor here does have the Charlie Paris engraving. In the photo below, you can also see this bracelet utilizes quick-release end links, and the bracelet is where the issues with this watch arise. It also states made in France on the website, and I want to clarify this means (as it states on their website) it is assembled in France. I would assume it is manufactured in China.
At $922, the price as I wrote this review, you would expect a pretty nice bracelet, especially these days. What you get instead is one of the most generic oyster bracelets available and a clasp that belongs on a watch that would cost much less, like $600 less. There is just no other way to say it. This bracelet and clasp are not up to par with the watch case and need a major upgrade. The Charlie Paris Concordia series is also available on a canvas strap (and one upcoming model with a leather strap). The canvas strap which you can see in the video review is not exactly great either, (kind of thin and cheap feeling with a cheap buckle) and is only $50 less than the bracelet version.
On my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, this 40 mm piece looks the part but with the subpar bracelet, it doesn’t feel very great. Both the bracelet and strap do have quick-release bars, which you can never be sure how they will hold up in the future, but like any watch with unappealing straps, you can always put on one of your own, that is if you like the watch head itself.
I think the Charlie Paris Concordia is an attractive piece, and regardless of how you feel about the case being so similar to the Black Bay, the watch does have some unique features and can be a great everyday piece, and should be able to handle some water if you find it really necessary as it’s listed as 300m water resistant. The bracelet and strap issues are really hard to ignore though given the price, I mean this is basically a $1000 watch after tax and shipping unless you are able to find some discounts. Hopefully, the brand can upgrade its bracelet and straps and live up to its price tag or lower its prices to be more in line with the overall quality.