The Quartz Disaster of the Nineteen Seventies sounded the demise knell for lots of iconic Swiss manufacturers that had produced some improbable watches. One such firm was Nivada Grenchen, a model that had existed since 1926, and produced a variety of distinctly cool software watches. The corporate even equipped timepieces to the US Navy for his or her expedition to Antarctica (Operation Deep Freeze) in 1955-56.
For me, Nivada Grenchen’s demise was one of many nice losses of the Quartz Disaster. Which is why I used to be completely thrilled when the model was revived again in 2018. While I am not conscious of any connection to the unique model apart from the title, the brand new Nivada Grenchen understands the significance of creating use of the heritage of that title.
As such, its fashions are all near-exact reissues of traditional Nivada Grenchen watches. One in every of my favorites is the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, which is offered in a mind-boggling array of dial choices, and with the selection of both a guide or computerized motion. So when Nivada obtained in contact to supply me a watch in trade for reviewing it, I had a tough time selecting which to go for!
In the long run, I opted for the Orange Boy “SL” with a manual-wind motion on a beads of rice bracelet, the retail worth for which is CHF1,795. This interprets to roughly £1,481 or $,1843 on the time of writing.
A Traditional Case Measurement
As I discussed earlier, the watch is a near-exact reissue of the unique Nivada Chronomaster, which incorporates the case being the identical 38mm measurement as the unique. That is thought of small for contemporary chronographs, but it surely’s a key motive the Chronomaster looks like an authentically classic watch. The bezel is definitely barely wider than the case too, which provides one other millimetre to the scale. The lug-to-lug is a reasonably cheap 46.5mm, which suggests the watch would not really feel tiny on the wrist. Nevertheless, it is nonetheless not a giant watch, and when you’ve obtained massive wrists you would possibly discover the Chronomaster a bit small for you.
The explanation I selected the guide wind model is as a result of it is simply over a millimetre thinner than the automated Chronomaster, and it measures a really cheap 13.8mm together with the crystal. A whole lot of manufacturers insist on making their mechanical chronographs computerized, which makes them very thick, so I am happy to see Nivada providing each choices.
The beads of rice bracelet is fairly snug, and it helps reinforce the Chronomaster’s classic look. The hyperlinks are held in place by screws, which makes the bracelet straightforward to measurement, although they nonetheless function the directional arrows for pins. This brought on me some confusion once I initially obtained the watch, and it took me some time to understand why the pins weren’t popping out.
The clasp is only a easy pressed foldover sort, and while it is period-correct, I might have most popular to see a extra trendy (and better high quality) clasp as an alternative. Nevertheless, this can be a small gripe within the grand scheme of issues, and it actually would not diminish my general love of the watch. The lugs are additionally drilled, which lets you swap out the strap with ease, ought to you become bored with the bracelet.
A Look At The Dial
The dial sits beneath a domed sapphire crystal that matches the aesthetics of the acrylic used on the unique, while providing vastly improved scratch resistance. The dial itself is clear and uncluttered, which makes it very straightforward to learn. Actually, its simplicity hides the multitude of features constructed into the watch that offers it its convoluted title.
First, there’s the chronograph, which may observe as much as half-hour utilizing the intense orange central seconds hand and the sub-dial at three o’clock, the sub-dial at 9 counting the working seconds. That is complemented by a tachymeter scale on the surface of the dial, and the minute observe which has hash marks for fifths of a second. The sub-dial additionally has an attention grabbing purple phase to depend down the primary 5 minutes. It is a function that was initially designed for yachting, however which is considerably redundant at present.
The bezel is a bidirectional friction bezel that rotates easily in both route. Its aluminum insert options full 60-minute hash marks for monitoring elapsed time as much as an hour, in addition to a small 12-hour scale for monitoring a second time zone. The 12-hour scale is not the best to learn, but it surely’s there do you have to want it.
All that is complemented by a 100m depth ranking that means that you can swim and snorkel with the Chronomaster, and a lumed dial and handset for legibility at the hours of darkness. The lume is not the brightest, but it surely ought to be sufficient for day by day put on.
A Strong Motion
In terms of chronograph actions, the overwhelming majority of watch fans desire to see a watch utilizing a mechanical motion, reasonably than a quartz one. The issue with that is {that a} mechanical chronograph will be fairly costly, and most inexpensive ones are powered by Chinese language-made Seagull actions.
For the Chronomaster Nivada selected to make use of the Sellita SW510 BH b. As I’ve mentioned earlier than, this caliber is available in each an computerized and a guide variation and options 27 jewels, a 4Hz beat charge, and a 48-hour energy reserve. All of which makes the SW510 a strong alternative of motion. Provided that the Chronomaster prices slightly below £1,500 I believe the usage of a Sellita motion makes it a discount for the worth.
Remaining Ideas
In my view, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster is a near-perfect reissue of one of the vital lovely watches of the period. Nivada made the correct resolution by being as devoted to the unique as they might, because the Chronomaster feels similar to a Sixties watch that is come straight from the manufacturing unit.
And at slightly below £1,500 for a mechanical Swiss chronograph, the Chronomaster additionally makes for a tempting worth proposition. It is obtained a good set of specs and wears extraordinarily nicely on the wrist. That mentioned, I am positive many individuals would wish to see the watch made slightly larger to account for contemporary tastes. Nevertheless, I am glad that Nivada resisted the temptation to try this, as it could have robbed the Chronomaster of what makes it so extremely interesting to followers of classic watches within the first place. It is a watch that is aware of precisely what it is making an attempt to be, and it would not make any compromises in an effort to appeal to those that need one thing totally different.
You should purchase the Chronomaster from Nivada Grenchen’s web site right here.
Plus, you need to use the code 12and60#strap to get one free strap if you buy a watch. Simply add your strap and watch to the cart first, after which enter the code on the checkout web page to get the low cost.