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Native grasslands, the ecosystem perhaps most powerfully entwined with our national identity, are on the decline. This protected preserve is the biggest sweep of tallgrass prairie in the nation, and the world. Here, you can see the American plains as they seemed centuries in the past, with herds of bison (about 2,500 of the shaggy-haired beasts roam freely) and swaths of purple prairie clover. Glacial pressure formed this lovely upstate landscape, abandoning 11 long, skinny, finger-like lakes in its wake.

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A leisure vacationer sometimes travels not as a result of there’s …

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